Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2025 ReadytoWear: Layered Response
Superfit Lucky Grey
A backstage session with Yohji Yamamoto on his seasonal whys and hows generally lead to more questions – and the occasional curveball. Asked what led him to add to his fall lineup silhouettes from Limi Feu, the 25-year-old label designed by his daughter Limi Yamamoto, he replied: “Probably because in the very near future, she’s taking my place, because I’m very tired.” You’d be too, if you’d had half the ideas he’s trotted out over the years. And by the sounds of it, there’s still more in the tank. Behind his fall season, there were “so many reasons, so many ambitions,” the elder Yamamoto said. The one he offered was that “this is a collection for winter, [which] is cold, so it’s nice to wear something that doesn’t make people looking at you feel cold,” he said, twinkly-eyed poker face well in place. You May Also Like The show started with straightforward takes staples for cold-weather dressing, including chimney-neck sweaters so high they went over the mouth, a raincoat and a leather jacket. From there, Yamamoto started to slice and splice into those same materials to create an impression of layers with none of the bulk. The cowl neck of a coat revealed a leather shoulder covering while a scarf-like swathe tumbled down the front, while another had curvilinear seaming that highlighted the interplay between matte suiting and the luster of leather. Other times, what looked like draping was a cunning assemblage oof elements without sewing them in place, using metal rings, snaps and lacing that telegraphed an impression of on-the-go adaptability. Occasional flashes of purple and even a multicolor marl added visual intrigue. In lieu of a finale, pairs of models came out wearing black coats, which they turned inside out to reveal lush purple quilted versions. It was a demonstration of his expansive creativity, but also the range he can pull out of a piece of fabric. Where were those Limi Feu silhouettes, then? When asked how many there had been, he countered with “how did you count?” Collection Gallery 46 Photos View Gallery Could cues perhaps be a minute flame jauntily perched on the head like a fascinator (“Feu” is French for fire)? The punk vibe of a pinstriped dress with frayed handkerchief hems cinched with a corset with likewise tooled edges? The back-and-forth of questions is never-ending. From the looks of it, so is the Yamamoto story.
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